Neighbourhood
The neighbourhood across the river, where bookbinders, goldsmiths, frame makers and restorers still work in open workshops.
Oltrarno, literally beyond the Arno, is where Florence's craft tradition survives. Wander Via Maggio, Via Santo Spirito and Borgo San Frediano to find artisans at work, then stop in one of the squares for lunch. It feels more local than the centre, just a few minutes' walk from Ponte Vecchio.
Best time to go: Weekday late morning, when the workshops are open.
Rules change, check official sources
Traffic zone
The whole historic centre is a ZTL watched by cameras at every entry gate. Without a permit you are fined by post, often months later and through your rental company. Sectors A, B and O apply Monday to Friday 7:30 to 20:00 and Saturday 7:30 to 16:00; from April to early October a night ZTL also runs on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Park outside and walk in. The outline shown is approximate.
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